We said goodbye to Aviemore after breakfast. First stop, 20 minutes away was Ruthven Barracks. This was built by the Government to defend against the Jacobite uprising. The Jacobites did eventually destroy the buildings in 1746.
The route towards Fort William has stunning scenery particularly along the banks of Loch Laggan. We’d lost track of our travelling party, and we pushed on without a rest stop, as we believed we were behind. We agreed to meet up in Fort Willian for lunch. Alison and Vic however found themselves already through Fort William and decided to keep going to Glencoe. The car needed refuelling, so we found a petrol station and had a quick lunch at McDonalds.
We eventually all met up in Glencoe and walked one (easiest) of the Glencoe Lochan Trails. It was a little rainy but the views around the small Loch (or Lochan) were stunning.
As the rain continued, we drove around Loch Leven. Again, the views were amazing.
We returned to Fort William and checked-in to our accommodation, Victoria House. Fort William is a popular hub for tourists. Situated close to Ben Nevis, it is a gateway to Western Scotland, including the Hebrides Isles, Glencoe and Oban.
Victoria House is on the outskirts of Fort William and not really close to any restaurants. It was close to a laundromat however, so we took the opportunity to freshen up our clothes. There were varying ideas for dinner, with the others opting for a takeaway sandwich from M&S. Jane and I drove into the town to a restaurant we’d found, however there was a queue out the door. Tired, we settled for a takeaway Thai curry from Cafe 115. It wasn’t anything special, but it hit the spot.
High St, Fort William
Day 7 – Glencoe
After breakfast we decided to rest, while Keith and Lynn joined in a Park Run in the Nevis Range.
When they returned, we drove back to Glencoe. Glencoe has got to be one of the most spectacular places on earth. With towering mountains and flat glacial valleys, there are postcard pictures at every turn. This was my favourite place, not only in Scotland, but of the whole trip.
Pizza break in Glencoe
Keith and Lynn offered to drive. It was a welcome relief for Jane as she has shouldered all the driving, not only here in Scotland, but in Ireland last week as well. We parked our car in Ballachulish and Lynn picked us up from there.
We caught the Mountain Resort Chairlift. It was a chilly ride, but the views were breathtaking. The chairlift took us up the mountain over waterfalls. There was a cafe at the top for a warm cuppa.
A little chillyViews of the valley
We decide to visit Oban for a late lunch. Oban is a seaside town renowned for seafood and a ferry port for the Hebrides Islands. Lynn was keen for fresh mussels, while the rest of us stuck with the old standard fish and chips. Oban is a pretty town and it was lovely to eat the fish and chips on the docks.
Oban
As we had a late lunch, we decided a cheese and cracker dinner in the Victoria House’s lounge would be a great way to finish the day. Accompanied by beer, wine and whisky of course.
That sadly, concluded our Highland trip. It’s back to Edinburgh tomorrow.
The road up the western edge of the Cairngorms National Park from Pitlochry was spectacular.
Some of the journey was along the A9. Stopping for a rest Jane needed to relieve herself and because there wasn’t much shelter, dropped her pants in full view on the motorists speeding by. We’re wating to see if there’s any dash can footage on YouTube.
Lost? no way with these expert navigators in the team
Before reaching Aviemore there were quite a few sights to see, we took the funicular train at the Cairngorms Mountain Railway to the lookout station. Unfortunately, the visibility was poor, and we couldn’t witness those promised views. We had lunch in the cafe and waited hopefully for the scotch mist to clear. It didn’t improve and we made our way back down the mountain.
Mountain RailwayJust saw the sign
Nearby was Loch Morlich, a beautiful small Loch. We stopped for some photos. In the photo below you can see the mountain railway in hill in the background and the blanket of mist preventing us from seeing the view back towards the Loch.
Loch Morlich
Also nearby was a Reindeer Park. The visitor’s centre offered two “tour options”. One was the “Hill Trip” that took you out in the forest to find and interact with a wild Reindeer herd. This looked inviting but the only available slot for that day didn’t fit in with our schedule. We opted for the second tour: the “Paddocks”. This was a bit of a disappointment as there was only one paddock with about five deer sleeping. It looked a bit sad. Keith and Lynn booked themselves for the Hill Trip for the next day. Alison, Vic, Jane and I had other plans for the next day, so we had to make do with just seeing the sad Reindeers.
Rudolph? Blitzen? more like Sleepy
We pushed on to Loch An Eilein, another small Loch with a nice 5km walk around its perimeter. Jane donned her new hiking shoes, and we walked around the Loch the beautiful forest. Hiking machines Keith, Lynn and Vic set a mean pace, while Alison, Jane and I lagged behind, taking in the natural beauty of the forest. (yeah ok – slow).
There was a castle in the middle of the LochLoch Na Eilein
We reached our accommodation before their 6pm deadline and checked in. The Cairngorm Guest House was a nice B&B on the main road in Aviemore. It was nice, but not a patch on the Poplars in Pitlochry.
We were told to book dinner, as restaurants get very busy in the town. Keith managed to get us into the Cairngorms Hotel. It was a short walk down the main road. It was a nice dinner, and we were served by an Aussie waitress.
Day 5 – Aviemore
Alison is a mega-fan of the TV series Outlander. The series is centred around the Battle of Culloden, a famous battle in 1746 between the English Government and the Jacobite army. The Clans were outnumbered but fought bravely and were overwhelmed by a better equipped opponent. Visiting the site was on Alison’s “must-do” list.
The battlefield was about one hour’s drive north of Aviemore. This provided a nice day’s itinerary for Alison, Vic, Jane and I, exploring around Inverness. Keith and Lynn went on their Reindeer tour.
The Culloden Battlefield has a visitor’s centre and offers guided tours of the site. We opted to roam the fields ourselves. There was plenty of information along the trails that outlined the bloody events. It was a great experience to see that famous part of Scottish history.
The front linesSome memorial stones
Nearby were some “Druid Stones”, the Clava Cairns. There are three cairns (pile of rocks) dating back to the bronze age (circa 2000 BC). Jane and Alison wanted to touch the stones and hopefully travel back in time to reverse the result of Culloden. Seeing as we’re not wearing kilts now, I guess it didn’t work.
One of the cairnsMagic(?) stones
Time for lunch. We made our way into the “Capital of the Scottish Highlands“, Inverness. Inverness is a large town and as usual, it was difficult to find parking. We found a restaurant on the outskirts of town for lunch. Street parking was available along the River Ness. The Uile-bheist Restaurant looked promising but was disappointing. The service was slow and the beef brisket baguette was ruined by a sweet barbeque sauce.
We drove through the town and down the west side of Loch Ness to visit Urquhart Castle. Visiting the world-famous Loch Ness was a bucket list item for me. The views driving down to the castle were spectacular. The first glimpse of Urquhart Castle was also an awesome sight.
Urquhart Castle is one of those picture-perfect tourism shots you see that immediately identifies Scotland. It’s a 15th century medieval fortress beautifully situated on the banks of Loch Ness. It’s largely in ruin but there’s enough intact to imagine what the site would have looked like in its heyday. We spent a couple of hours exploring the site and when the rain came, we decided to make our way back.
Iconic view
Travelling all the way in the highlands I was keeping an eye out for Highland Cows (or more correctly pronounced “Coos”). We saw plenty of regular coos, but none of the famous long horned woolly variety. Alison and Vic had spotted a sign on the way into Urquhart Castle for a place (Drumbuie Farm) that offered a coo-meet-and-greet. This might be our only chance to see a Highland Coo so we checked it out. For £5 (10 AUD) they gave you a cup of carrots and bread to feed the hairy beasts over the fence. It sounded like a kid’s activity, but it was actually a pretty cool experience. The Coos were greedy but gentle – and they appeared to have a genuine personality.
A Highland Coo
We returned to Aviemore and reunited with Keith and Lynn. They raved about the Reindeer experience and showed us their photos and videos. It did look amazing.
Yesterday we booked the Winking Owl for our dinner tonight. There were a number of dining options on offer. We decided to have pizzas in the pub. Pizzas were supplied by a van in the carpark – El Diego Pizzeria, and the pub allowed you to bring them inside. The pizza, beers and company were perfect to round out a wonderful day.
The flight from Belfast was only 35 minutes breaking my shortest plane ride record set only one week ago with Cardiff to Dublin. We arrived to a wet and cold Edinburgh mid-afternoon.
Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and the place I was born (1963).
We were talked into taking the Airport bus by our cousins. We’d have to alight at Haymarket Station and walk to our hotel. Arriving at Haymarket the weather was not conducive to carrying three suitcases and a backpack. It was cold and raining. The walk was only 10 minutes but felt longer.
We arrived to find my cousins, Keith, and Alison and their partners Lynn and Vic waiting for us in the hotel rooftop bar. The six of us planned a week travelling around the Scottish Highlands. On return to Edinburgh in a week’s time, we will be spreading some of the ashes of our parents over their birthplace.
It was fun to catch up with the cousins and share our adventures leading up to this point. Keith and Lynn have been in Poland and Alison and Vic recently arrived from a gruelling flight from Perth via Singapore and London – still suffering from jetlag. Our group name is “Will Trade Cousins for Whisky“. Lynn had badges made up for us all to proudly wear.
We walked up the road and has dinner at Maki & Ramen.
Our hotel was the Moxy Edinburgh. It was quite nice, but we were only staying here one night, using it as a launch pad to our self drive tour.
Day 2 – To Pitlochry
We met back up at breakfast and planned the day. We all had to pick up our hire cars, leave the hotel and drive to Pitlochry with a few planned stops along the way.
Budget car rentals was withing waking distance from the hotel. I suspected that I wouldn’t be able to drive seeing as I didn’t have my licence card. I’d lost it – or had it stolen in London the previous week. Sure enough they wouldn’t allow me to drive and once again Jane would shoulder all the driving duties. They had to cancel my booking and sign Jane up. The young attendant struggled with this and took over an hour to organise the car. We ended up with a Volkswagen Polo. It was a late model and had Android Auto, which was a big help.
First stop was the Forth Bridges. I have vague memories of crossing the Forth Road bridge when I was young – maybe over 55 years ago. The most famous is the UNESCO heritage listed Forth (rail) Bridge, then the Forth Road Bridge and since I was a boy they’ve added a third: the Queensferry Crossing. We didn’t need to cross the bridge; I just wanted some photos. Parking was at a premium, so I quickly shot out the car and snapped a few photos.
Forth Bridge over the Firth of Forth
Next was a short drive to the Kelpies. These are massive horse head sculptures designed my Andy Scott in 2013. They certainly are impressive. We met back up with the cousins and had our first picture all together.
L to R: Alison, Vic, Lynn, Keith, Jane, Alan
Another short drive was Stirling Castle. Parking here also proved challenging as the main carpark was closed for repair. We managed to squeeze into a spot on the road running behind the castle. The castle was huge and fully intact. Perched on a hill top it had magnificent views over the town of Stirling and the countryside. We spent a couple of hours exploring the rooms and displays. It was quite different to the castles we visited in Ireland. We bought a “Explorer Pass” will will give us access to other historic sites around Scotland.
Stirling Castle
On the way to Pitlochry we pass through the town of Perth. As we’re all living in the city of Perth, Western Australia we decided to stop and visit the place it was named after. It is a beautiful town with the River Tay running through the centre. We stopped briefly and took some photos. We intended to grab some lunch, but we were behind schedule and we needed to get to Pitlochry.
Perth, Scotland
We arrived at the Poplars Guest House B&B in and checked in. What a magnificent place this was. Nancy, our host and the most cheerful person in the world, greeted as and got us settled in. Our room was on the top floor with stunning views. We also had a second bedroom so we could comfortably store all our luggage. There was nothing to fault with this place. everything as immaculate.
Pitlochry itself is a very beautiful town. Its surrounded by mountains and is the gateway to the Cairngorms National Park. We knew we were going to enjoy this place.
Dinner tonight was going to be special. We were going to meet another cousin, Gillian, whom I (and Alison) haven’t seen for over 55 years. Keith hadn’t seen her for about 40 years. Gillian, her husband Scott and dog Nala live in Edinburgh, but coincidently they just happened to be in Pitlochry for an arts festival. We met at the restaurant Port na Craig. It was a great night catching up. Gillian and Scott invited us back to their caravan to continue the reminiscing. Alison and Vic, still suffering jetlag retired early back to the Poplars. We met Nala also, and as we’re missing our dogs from home, it was nice to get some poochy-love. The drinks and stories flowed freely until we had to stumble our way back to the accommodation. I still don’t know how we made it back.
It was really fantastic to see Gillian again. I hope we can catch-up again soon – this time in the Southern Hemisphere!
Dinner – Gillian and Scott at nearest the cameraGillian’s caravan
Day 3 – Pitlochry and Cairngorms
We have the whole day based in Pitlochry to explore the Cairngorms.
First stop was the Queens View lookout. It has sweeping views over Loch Tummel. It’s (maybe) called the Queens view because Queen Victoria visited there in 1866. It’s also the starting point for many forest trails. Keith, Lynn, Alison and Vic ventured down to the Loch and Keith immersed his face in the Scottish water to kiss the fairies. Jane didn’t have the right footwear for the steep gravelly trail, so her and I declined that hike. It was clear that she needed to buy some hiking shoes.
Nearby was Blair Athol Castle. Blair castle is really more of a house than a castle – bit a very big house at that. It has over 40 rooms all beautifully restored with thousands of artefacts, weapons, costumes and furniture. It takes a while to visit every room, but was fascinating to see the displays. The piper outside was the highlight though.
Piper at Blair Castle
We stopped at Bruer for a quick lunch and then walked to the Falls of Bruer. Jane and I only went so far as the lower falls, while the rest carried on to the upper falls. Again we blamed lack of good footwear.
Back to Pitlochry we found an outdoor-wear shop and bought some hiking boots for Jane. Now we won’t have any excuse to bail on the walks. We joined the rest of the team at the Old Mill Inn for dinner. That rounded out a wonderful day.
Tomorrow, we traverse the western edge on the Cairngorms to Aviemore.
Galway to Derry/Londonderry was the longest drive of the trip so far. There was a couple of things to see along the way. Mostly the journey was along motorways and highways, which Jane was thankful for.
First stop was pretty town of Donegal. Donegal Castle sits right in the middle of the town, We had lunch at The Olde Castle Seafood Bar, before touring the castle. We joined in a tour of the castle and learned its interesting history. We also walked around the town and bought some souvenirs and this was probably the last opportunity in (The Republic of) Ireland.
Donegal CastleInside Donegal Castle
Situated just before the Northern Ireland border is the Grianán of Aileach. This the remnant of a fort built on a 250m hill. Perfectly circular it commands breathtaking views of Ireland to the west and Northern Ireland to the east.
Grianan of AileachGrianan of Aileach
We slipped over the border into Northern Ireland without any fuss. We were expecting at least a “Welcome” sign. When I checked Google maps we’d already left Ireland. We arrived in Derry and found our accommodation for the night. The Lawrence is a small boutique hotel elegantly decorated. Each room id themes on a famous Irish Writer. Our room the Joseph Mary Plunket suite was beautiful. The hotel host explained a little about Mr Plunket and even sang us a verse of the famous Irish ballad “Grace“, dedicated to Plunket’s sweetheart. I’ve never had that happen in a hotel before.
Another Derry GirlThe Lawrence – Joseph Mary Plunket Suite
We took some time to walk along the river front. We saw the famous Derry Girls mural. We had dinner at the Old Docks Bar and Grill before retiring for the night.
Day 2 – Causeway Coastal Drive
The Causeway Coastal Route from Derry to Belfast is said to be one of the most beautiful drives in the world. Our first stop was Duluce Castle. This was my favourite castle of the trip so far. Mainly for the location. Perched right on a cliff’s edge its magnificent views over the rugged coast line. The stone walls of the castle, the blue sky and green grass contrasted and complimented each other wonderfully. It was like a scene from a fantasy movie.
Duluce Castle
The next planned stop was the Giants Causeway, but we were running late for our appointment to cross the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. The bridge links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrickarede. We had already booked online for this a few months ago. Jane readily agreed to it then .. but now after seeing the coastline she was thinking again. The bridge is a 15 minute walk from the carpark and there was a small queue to cross it. The wind wasn’t strong but Jane decided to stay and take photos and videos. I crossed it – it wasn’t scary at all. The bridge didn’t sway, but it did bounce a fair bit. It was an unique experience.
Stunning scenery around Carrick-a-RedeCarrick-a-Rede bridge
After lunch at a pub in the town of Bushmills – the place they make Bushmills Irish Whiskey, be backtracked to The Giants Causeway. This is a unique coastal landform that resembles stepping stones for giants. We didn’t have the time nor the energy for the full tour, so we took the cliff top walk and enjoyed the scenery from afar.
It was getting late so we pushed on into Belfast. Belfast is a small city and capital of Northern Ireland.
We checked into the Europa Hotel and returned to the car to find a parking space, while we got settled in. We had to return the hire car that afternoon. We had to return the car with a full tank of fuel and we knew there was a petrol station close to the Sixt Airport depot. When we tried to fill up it would not accept any of credit cards – and there was no attendant. We had to return the car 3/4 full – and yes, of course, they slugged us with a charge.
We caught the Airport Express bus back to the city and rewarded ourselves with a few drinks in two of the pubs around our hotel. Jane spotted a Filipino restaurant, Rayles Diners, so we had some Sisig for dinner.
Day 3 – Belfast tours
We had the whole next day in Belfast. We had booked the Titanic Experience tour. The experience is situated in the actual location the Titanic was built. The self guided tour starts with the ship’s conception right through to the sinking and finding the wreckage, It was fascinating and very well done.
Titanic build siteList of Lost and Saved names
Since we arrived in Ireland Jane was bugging me to go to the Game of Thrones Studio Tour. I hadn’t allowed for this in the trip plan, so I have been telling her to arrange it for the past week. With only half a day left in Belfast, she booked it and all of a sudden we were on the bus to the studios. The tour is in the actual studio that about 75% of the Game of Thrones was filmed. It was pretty good with lots of props and scenes. The highlight for me was the Iron Throne.
The Iron ThroneMap room
On our return to Belfast, we found almost no restaurants with a free table for two for dinner. We eventually found someone that would take us in, The Shed Grill and Seafood. We shared a seafood risotto. It was nice.
Day 4 – Flying to Scotland
We woke fairly late and I went across the road to get Starbucks coffee for breakfast. I also picked up a Belfast Starbucks mug for my collection. We took the Airport express bus to the airport and caught our easyJet flight to Edinburgh.
First stop was Powerscourt Estate and Gardens. These stunning gardens was voted 3rd best garden in the world and have featured in over 50 TV shows and movies, notably “Wednesday” and the “Count of Monte Cristo”.
Powercourt Gardens
We entered the Wicklow Mountains National Park. This was one of the things we were looking forward to since seeing the movie “PS I Love You“. The road was narrow and winding. Passing other vehicles was a challenge – one that Jane quickly mastered. Highlights were Lough Tay, also referred to as Guinness Lake and the bridge featured in the movie along Sally Gap. The scenery was beautiful – worth the tough drive.
Lough Tay
Th next stop was the Glendalough Cathedral. This ancient Monastic “City” is one of the oldest in Ireland dating back to the 10th century. Most of the buildings are in ruin, but the 12th century chapel still stands. A short walk brings to the picturesque “Upper” lake.
Glendalough Catheral
We arrived in Kilkenny around 6pm and checked into our accommodation at The Orchard House. The room was nice and the staff very friendly. Jane was exhausted from the driving so we decided to have a drink and dinner at their Bar/Restaurant. I had a Kilkenny of course! The food was good and there was a guy singing cover songs that had the crowd singing along.
When in Kilkenny…
Day 2 – Travelling to Cork
Seeing we’re staying close to Kilkenny, we thought we’d better check out the town.
Kilkenny castle sits right in the middle of the village and is impressive in size. We didn’t have enough time to go inside, but we had tea and scones in the gardens.
Kilkenny Castle
Close to Kilkenny and on the route to Cork were two attractions, Kell’s Priory and Jerpoint Abbey. We headed out for Kell’s Priory, but the road was closed. The other way in was a huge detour, so we decided to head to Jerpoint Abbey. The Abbey is a 12th century Cistercian chapel, in quite good condition.
Jerpoint Abbey
The next stop was a another castle. The majestic Rock of Cashel sitting high above the town of Cashel. Home to the Kings of Munster in the 4th century the castle had many owners throughout its history. It was in very good condition and had great views over the town of town and farmlands.
Rock of Cashel
Another castle along the way was Cahir Castle. It was very pretty on the outside, but quite small and bland in the inside. After coming from the Rock of Cashel, this one seem a little boring – perhaps we were getting “castle-burnout”.
Cahir Castle
We arrived at our accommodation outside Cork quite late. Lucy’s Loft was deep inside farmland and a little difficult to find. The host said the key would be in the lock-box and we can let ourselves in. When we arrived the key was in the door and it was open. Inside the bed wasn’t made and the towels were used. It appears the room had not been cleaned. We contacted the host and he immediately apologised and offered his other property, 9 Acre to us. We agreed and went there right away.
It was a shipping container converted into bedroom and bathroom. It was nice enough, but we were unable to lock the door and the wifi wasn’t working. Again we contacted the host. He suggested a few remedies, but nothing helped. Disappointed, we decided to go into town and get something to eat. We got chicken curry and prawn chow mein from the local Chinese takeaway, the Great Wall Chinese and brough it back to the container. While still eating, the host contacted us again and said Lucy’s Loft was now ready and we could move back there if we wanted. As we didn’t feel safe in the unlockable container, we immediately moved back.
After all that, we had a comfortable night – with wifi!
We left Lucy’s Loft about mid morning. We’re on our way to Killarney today and then Galway tomorrow.
We were staying outside Cork and quite close to Cohb (pronounced Cove). I’d seen this town many times in social media and it looked a very pretty seaside village. It is also known for the last place The Titanic visited on it’s ill-fated maiden journey across the Atlantic. In those days it was called Queenstown. We found a parking place and walked along the sea front in the drizzling rain. It was very pretty indeed.
Cobh
We drove on to one of the most famous places in Ireland, the Blarney Castle. Of course, there you have the opportunity to kiss the Blarney Stone and receive the “Gift of the Gab”. I joked to Jane that she already has that gift and she might want to skip the kissing part. She agreed – not to mention all the germs that would be involved. Nevertheless we entered the castle and climbed the narrow ancient stone staircase with all the other nutters. We both said we’re just going for a look. The climb was long, steep – and slow because we were in a queue. When it came to our turn – we did it! After all that effort, it seemed a waste not to indulge. Also everyone else did it! Ridiculous really.
The castle and the surrounding gardens were stunning. An Irish piper was playing at the foot of the castle. He even played Waltzing Matilda!
Blarney Castle with piperJane’s kissAlan’s kiss
Next stop was another castle: Macroom Castle in the town of Macroom. This wasn’t a castle as such. Just the gatehouse remains. We stopped and stretched our legs and bought some snacks for the road.
St Finbarr’s Oratory in was the next stop. What a beautiful place this is. A small chapel sits in a little island in Gougane Barra Lake. It was so serene and magical. We spent a while walking around taking pictures. We stopped into Cronin’s Bar and Cafe for a toasted sandwich and a pint.
St Finbarr’s OratoryGougane Barra Lake
Next stop was Ladies View on the famous Ring of Kerry trail. It was only 16km – but what a drive that was! Steep widing road with barely enough width for one car. We drove slow and carefully – it seemed to take hours. Thankfully we never met any cars coming the other way. The views were stunning, but it was hard to enjoy it with so much concentration on the road. We made it! Great work from Jane driving the whole way.
Eyes on the road Jane!
Finally the road widened and we could breathe again. We arrived at the Ladies View. There were multiple places to stop and get great photos of the lakes and mountains. Truly a beautiful area. And, no, there were no ladies to view.
Ladies View
We arrived late at our accommodation in Killorglin, just outside Kilarney. The host of Mountain Widok met us and showed us to our room. A great improvement on the last accommodation drama. The room and bathroom were clean and decorated beautifully.
We ventured into town and had a very nice pizza at Kingstone Boutique Pub for dinner. We returned to the room and crashed, exhausted from our most full-on day so far.
Day 2 – The Cliffs
We slept in and left later than we planned. Our first stop was the town of Adare, but heavy road works leading into the town put us off and we decide to push on to Newcastle West. We stopped there for lunch at the Sultana Cafe.
Next stop was Bunratty Castle. This castle is one of the most complete castles in Ireland and is situated in a “Folk Park”. It includes farmhouses, mills, a chapel, gardens and a manor house. I entered the castle and explored the various rooms. Jane still had PTSD from the stairs in Blarney Castle and stayed outside. The grounds were nice to wander around.
Bunratty CastleWaterwheel mill
The next stop is also a very famous attraction in Ireland: The Cliffs of Moher. These 120m cliffs offer stunning views over the Atlantic Ocean. There is a massive carpark and a walk up to the cliffs. It was a nice day and very busy with tourists. There were trails along the cliffs that gave different perspectives. The views were indeed gorgeous.
We got lucky with the weather and has clear views early on. Later the rain came which signaled time to move on.
Cliffs of MoherObligatory Selfie
We arrived at our accommodation in Kinvara, just outside Galway. Our accommodation was Kinvara Guest Suite, a room and ensuite attached to the host’s house. The place was very nice – neat and clean. We arrived early enough to do some laundry at a road-side laundromat. After the chores were done, we had dinner at Pier Head. We chatted to the Filipino manager who had lived in Kinvara for over 26 years. Kinvara seems like a million miles from the Philippines.
Tomorrow we leave the Republic of Ireland and into Northern Ireland.
The flight to Dublin was very short 45 mins. We arrived on our Ryan Air flight and had to split up going through immigration. Travelling on my British passport I was afforded the luxury of a cursory wave through, while “dodgy foreigner” Jane had to line up for a proper inspection. I swear it took longer for her to get through immigration than the flight took itself.
We finally met back up and collected our luggage. We caught a taxi to our accommodation, Carraig Townhouse south of the city in Blackrock. We arrived at the place 1.30am, too late for a normal check-in. I had already arranged for the keys to be in a lock-box at the front door. Finding the front door was a challenge. The kind taxi driver helped us and we eventually found the tiny entrance. We retrieved our keys and found our room on the first floor, which meant us lugging our cases up a creaky staircase. We collapsed in bed exhausted.
The room was tiny and claustrophobic. It had similar feels to the London Tower Hotel – but not as hot.
Day 2 – Guinness!
We woke late the next day. We had tickets for the 11am session at the Guinness Storehouse. This was one of my must-do activities in Dublin (or the whole trip) so it was a priority to get there on time. We caught the Dart train from Blackrock into the city. We grabbed a quick bite and waited for the no 73 bus to St James. I asked the driver does this bus stop at “St Steevens” stop and he didn’t seem to know the stop, despite Mr Google saying it does exist. Anyway the bus definitely stopped in St James – close enough! The driver was sick of all the questions, and waved us on for a free ride. Sure enough we over-shot the stop and had a 10 minute walk back to the Storehouse. We made it in plenty of time.
The Guinness Storehouse didn’t let us down. What a wonderful place. 6 levels of exhibitions and experiences. I had booked the extra Stoutie Experience, where they “print” your face on foam on the top of a pint of Guinness. Magic! This was Jane’s first pint of Guinness. She should have been in training for this. She couldn’t finish her’s, so I stepped in and saved the day. The self guided tour concluded with a free pint at the Gravity bar on the top floor. Jane took the soft drink option – Weak! I had another Guinness topping off a fantastic day – oh it’s only 1pm. I guess we better see if Dublin has any other attractions.
Water featureWee glass for the drinking lessonFree pint overlooking Dublin CityGuinness never looked so good
We caught a horse buggy ride to Dublin Castle. We should had researched that ahead of time, because it was closed for renovation. With so much drinking, we decided we should have some food, so we stopped at the Bull and Castle pun for lunch. We shared an excellent seafood chowder.
We walked into the city to see the famous Temple Bar. We walked though the crowded noisy pub just to see what all the fuss was about. We we glad to make it through the other side.
Temple bar
We pushed on further to visit the Trinity College grounds on the University of Dublin. It was cool, but didn’t really standout to me. There was no Jollibee in Dublin, so we walked back to the Train station and caught the Dart back to Blackrock.
Trinity college
After resting in the hotel, we walked across the road for dinner at San Sab., a small Thai restaurant. We shared a delicious Panang Curry.
Day 3 – Do you have a licence?
We are leaving Dublin and embarking on a self drive tour around Ireland and Northern Ireland, ending in Belfast.
I have been worrying since I lost my wallet and driver’s licence in London, that the hire car company, Sixt would not be happy letting me drive one of their cars. Sure enough they weren’t. They would not allow me to drive the car without a physical licence. That means Jane will be driving the entire route! That was very annoying. But to Jane’s credit she realised the predicament and agreed to bravely shoulder the task.
Our ride for the next 6 days
Jane drove back to Blackrock, checked-out and loaded up our bags in the car. The car is a Dacia Duster, a brand neither of us had heard of. It drove well, although there was an annoying grating sound in the rear.
We found a laundromat nearby and had a coffee and toastie while waiting for the fresh clothes.
We happily checked out of the Tower Hotel and caught an uber to Paddington Train Station. We are catching the train to Cardiff, the capital and largest city in Wales. We arrived a little early and took some photos with the Paddington Bear statue. The train was 10 minutes late and not crowded. We also booked first class so it was a pleasant journey.
Arriving in Cardiff we felt a sense of relief. After the crowded hectic pace of London, it was nice to breathe again.
We caught a taxi to our St David’s hotel at the bay. The hotel was beautiful – again such a contrast to the hot box of London’s Tower Hotel. The room was spacious with a sitting area and balcony with a stunning view over the quay. It was a little windy, but the air was refreshing. Again a welcome change from London.
After settling in we walked down to Mermaid Quay and Roald Dhal Plass. Mermaid Quay is pretty and has an array of pubs and restaurants over looking the docks. Roald Dhal Plass is named after the Cardiff born author and has carnival type entertainment mainly for kids.
We had an early dinner at the Botanist restaurant, as we can secured last minute tickets to see Jersey Boys at the Millennium Centre. Sarah suggested it to us and at £24 (48 AUD) a ticket we couldn’t pass it up.
We returned to the hotel and drunk our “anniversary” gift from the Tower Hotel Champagne and potato crisps.
Welcome Welsh Cake on the balconyThe docks at Mermaid QuayJersey Boys
Day 2
Breakfast was included in St David’s. It was basic but nice.
Aaron’s mum, Sarah picked us up from the hotel and drove us to Bute Park. Part of the reason to visit Cardiff was to meet Bianca’s boyfriend’s parents, Sarah and Paul. Sarah walked us though the park which ended at Cardiff Castle. She left us there to explore the castle and the city. We are having dinner together with Paul later in the evening.
We explored the castle in between rain showers. Its very impressive to have a castle like this right in the middle of the city. It makes you realise how young our home town of Perth really is.
Jane had done her research again and found Cardiff has a Jollibee. So we had to have lunch there. After lunch we wandered around St David’s Shopping Centre. I found a Starbucks and bought a cup for my collection. “Caerdydd” – the only Starbucks “You are here” series I’ve seen with a non-English name. We made our way to the indoor markets to find the famous Welsh Cakes, recommended my Sarah. We had to queue – seems like they really are famous. We bought a few and sat in the mall and enjoyed one.
Bute ParkCardiff CastleWelsh Cakes
Out feet were starting to hurt again so we had a drink at Rum and Fizz waiting to meet Sarah and Paul.
When they arrived we had another drink, before heading across the road to Pasture for dinner. We continued the drinking swapping embarrassing stories about Bianca and Aaron. I’m sure their ears were burning. The food was delicious and we had lots of laughs. Despite our protests, Sarah and Paul picked up the bill. We can now see from where Aaron gets his generosity. Despite all the beer and wine, we decided there still more embarrassing things to say about Bianca and Aaron, so we move on to Blue Bell for post dinner drinks. We parted ways quite late and quite tipsy. What a great night! Sarah and Paul were lovely and we hit it off immediately. I’m sure we’ll meet again soon, perhaps in Perth later in the year. Looking forward to it!
Our new Welsh besties
Day 3
Today, we’re flying to Dublin – but not until late night (10.45pm). We had a 2pm checkout so we slept in. After the heavy drinking the night before the sleep-in was welcome.
Sarah suggest a trip to Penarth Pier and have lunch at the seaside. We caught an uber to Penarth. It was raining quite hard to we sheltered in Sid’s restaurant and shared a haddock and chips. The rain did ease and we walked up the pier and took some phots
PenarthPenarth Pier
We caught an uber back to Mermaid Quay and had a pint at the Dock pub. We were just killing time before we had to got to the airport. We walked back to to the hotel to collected our bags and caught an uber to Cardiff Airport for our Ryan Air flight to Dublin.
We were too early and had wait an hour for the check-in to open. I had bought extra baggage for the flight but I was worried because I knew small domestic carriers can be narky with big heavy bags. Check-in went smoothly. When it was time to board however, they looked at Jane’s carry-on bag and said they’d have to measure it. “Uh-oh” I thought, “here we go”. Sure enough it was too big and there “would be a charge”. Steam was coming out of Jane’s ears. One of her pet peeves is airline officials. This was a bag we’d used as carry-on in countless flights in the past. Nevertheless we paid the £75 (150 AUD) boarded the plane. The flight was only 45 minutes, possibly the shortest flight I’ve ever had.
In Dublin, Jane had to join the foreigner’s line at immigration, while I breezed through the EU/UK line. I waited for about 30 mins for Jane to get through. By this time it was nearing 1am. We we’re tired and frustrated. We caught a taxi to the accommodation, Carraig Townhouse, which was in Blackrock about 30 minutes from the airport. It took us a while to find the tiny entrance to the hotel and we had to lug our cases up a flight of stairs. We collapsed in the room exhausted.
We arrived in London quite fresh from the luxurious flight. We claimed our bags and went straight through immigration without any delay. There were taxis waiting with a queue so we decided to grab one to the hotel.
The weather was hot (32 deg) and the traffic was horrendous – which was expected. but £120 (240AUD) later we arrived at the Tower Hotel – hot, sweaty and frustrated.
We self checked in and went to our room. The view was stunning overlooking the Tower Bridge – BUT the room was like an oven – the thermostat displayed 33 deg. We tried to give it half an hour – maybe the aircon hadn’t kicked in. No change to the comfort level – so we asked for a room change. Jane managed to get a room with a nice view over St Katharine Docks. That room was also hot – but bearable – 28deg. The hotel never cooled down during our entire 5 day stay. I guess their air conditioning gave up trying.
We went for a walk around the hotel, checking out the Tower Bridge and St Katharine docks. We shared a fish and chips and a restaurant in the Docks. Jane wasn’t impressed with food.
We woke early – Jetlag I suppose. We ventured out about 6am hoping to get some breakfast, Nothing was open! The hotel was actually serving breakfast but we didn’t want to pay £25 (50AUD) each for the buffet. We had a coffee and a cinnamon bun in Costa.
We walked over the bridge and along the South Bank. There weren’t lot of people around – just joggers (none of the them were smiling). We walked past Hay’s Galleria, but again we were too early for anything to be to be open. We pushed on to Borough Markets. Of course we got there too early and walked around waiting for opening time. London doesn’t cater for the jet-lagged.
One the Borough Markets were open we had a good look around and marveled at the exotic foods on offer. Jane wanted a doughnut from Bread Ahead after she saw it on Instagram. Bread Ahead was open, but their special doughnuts didn’t arrive until later (of course). Again we waited. A queue formed and with great pomp and ceremony the Doughnut were paraded out to cheers and applause from the idio… people in the line. Jane bought two at £10 (20AUD) each, Jane was in heaven, Me? They were ok but not worth all that fuss. Jane bought another two before we left – yes that’s $80 on doughnuts!
We crossed the Thames on the Millennium bridge and up to St Paul’s Cathedral. The cathedral was gigantic. We took photos around the grounds, but were too stingy to pay the entrance fee.
Next stop was the Barbican Centre, This is a performing arts centre with some nice gardens. By this time we had walked enough to deserve some refreshment. We stopped in at the The Jugged Hare for couple of pints.
Exhausted and tipsy we caught the tube back to the hotel for quick nap.
We awoke around sunset and had a quick dinner outside under the bridge. Nachos and buffalo wings from a food truck. We walked over the bridge for some sunset photos – the difference was amazing – so many people compared to early this morning. Tourists!
Lining up for a DoughnutSt Pauls Cathedral
Day 3 – Thieving bastards
Again we woke early – but not as early. We walked past the Tower of London and found a Wetherspoons open for breakfast. The breakfast was ok. We took the tube to Westminster to take the obligatory photos on Big Ben, the London Eye and Westminster Abbey. Jane didn’t seem impressed with Big Ben – she thought in would be a Bigger Ben. We intended to visit Westminster Abbey but out Copilot (AI) generated itinerary failed to know that its closed for visitors on Sundays.
We pushed on to St James’s Park. This is London’s oldest Royal Park and is a nice thoroughfare to Buckingham Palace. The palace of course is the home of King Charles and the royal family. We were in luck as there was a royal band playing in the courtyard. Hundreds (maybe thousands) on people had gathered to witness it. The band matched out of the gates and down The Mall. We had a good view and was nice to witness a bit of royal pageantry.
We caught an Uber to Covent Garden and explored the shops. We both agreed is was time for some liquid refreshment so we scouted for a pub. Our “too early” curse was still with us. We found a pub that was open down the street. A couple of pints at the Marquess of Anglesey hit the spot.
Jane had seen a vintage shop selling Burberry trench coats near Covent Garden so we checked out “Check It Vintage“. There were indeed lots of Burberry coats but at £800 (1600AUD) for a second hand coat was out of Jane’s budget.
We caught the tube to Leicester Square – not to check out the artsy theatre district – but to have lunch at Jollibee. Whenever we go to a new city, Jane seeks out the famous Filipino favourite Jollibee. We sat with all the other Filipinos and Jane got her taste of home again. We will be coming back to Leicester Square tomorrow to catch the West End show Beetlejuice.
We to a short walk to Trafalgar Square. Unfortunately the fountains were closed and roped off for maintenance. The place was empty. The national gallery was right opposite and as there is free entry we decided to have a look. Such a great experience for free.
We took the tube to Kings Cross station to check out Platform 9 3/4. The famous scene where Harry Potter crashed his luggage through the wall into the secret platform reserved just for wizards. There was a massive queue (mostly kids) to get an official photo, so we snapped pic between the queuers.
Exhausted we took the tube back to Tower Hill and out hotel. Exiting the Tower Hill station, I remember opening my wallet to get my Wise card to tag off . I never saw my wallet again.
Our feet were in pain and glad to get back to the hotel for a rest. Reaching in my pocket for my room key I discovered my wallet wasn’t in my pocket. My heart sunk as I came to realise what had happened. I’d either dropped in on the way, or more likely I had been pickpocketed!
I froze the credit cards immediately. We retraced our steps back to Tower Hill just on the remote chance it was lying on the street somewhere. Nothing doing. We asked the guard at Tower Hill – nothing had been handed in. We returned to the hotel miserable and I got online and cancelled the two cards and ordered new ones. I checked the accounts and nothing was bought or withdrawn. I lost two credit cards – drivers licence – and £20 cash – and my nice Tommy Hilfiger wallet. I had all my other cards in the hotel safe.
I have been very vigilant on the street from then on – not to mention Jane asking my “where’s your phone” every five minutes!
To try an cheer ourselves up we went across the bridge to have dinner at Butlers Wharf. There are few nice restaurants on the river bank with a great view of the Tower Bridge. We chose the Chop House because the menu promised delicious steaks. I ordered a 200g rump – medium rare – for £40 (80AUD). At that price it should be perfect. It came over-cooked. I’m not usually one to complain, but I had to send it back. They apologised and said they can give to a Fillet steak as a replacement (£50 on the menu). When that arrived it was under-cooked! I didn’t mind it rare so I ate it. The staff were great and only charged me half price for the steak.
Westminster AbbeySt James ParkTrafalgar SquareDinner at Chop House
Day 4 – Looking for Hugh
We researched a good place to go for breakfast and De Vine was the clear winner. The breakfast was as good as advertised. We then catch the tube to Notting Hill. Jane loves the movie and was keen to bump into Hugh Grant. We walked to Portobello Road to see the famous Portobello Markets. Of course Jane had to visit the “Blue Door” and the Book Store featured in the movie. Hugh must have been busy that day.
We had lunch at Dishoom Permit Room, an Indian themed pub. The curry was delicious.
We continued our quest to find Hugh, wandering the beautiful streets on Notting Hill. We found the Rosemead Gardens also featured in the movie. The gates were locked however. It was a private garden for the residents. Hugh was probably in there. We made out way back to the hotel for a rest – holding our belongings tight.
We had tickets for the show Beetlejuice at the Prince Edward Theatre, We caught an Uber to Leicester Square for dinner before the show.
On the previous visit to Leicester Square we saw a restaurant called Bella Italia, and made a mental note for the pre-show dinner. Searching for the restaurant on google maps we discovered there are four Bella Italia’s in that area. We couldn’t remember the one we liked. We chose Bella Italia – St Martins Lane. We shared a pasta and garlic bread. Good choice.
Seeing a London West end show was a bucket list item of mine and Beetlejuice was a great choice. Although the Prince Edward Theatre was hot and claustrophobic we thoroughly enjoyed the show with lots of laughs. Definitely recommended.
Portobello MarketsBlue DoorRosemead GardenPrince Edward TheatreBeetlejuice show
Day 5 – GMT
Finally our jet lag was wearing off and we managed to sleep in. We skipped breakfast and made out way to Tower Pier to catch the Uber Boat to Greenwich.
Arriving at Greenwich we were hungry so we had lunch at Zizzi. The peperoni pizza was huge and delicious.
We walked though Greenwich park to the Queen’s House. This beautiful building was once a Royal Residence and now serves as an art gallery. We then took the steep climb to the Royal Observatory. The Royal Observatory played a major role in navigation and astronomy and has the Prime Meridian passing though it. Another bucket list item checked off as I straddle the line, having each foot in different hemispheres. It also had stunning views over the Thames and North London.
Making our way back down to the Pier, we stopped and had a drink at The Ship Tavern.
We took the Uber Boat back to Canary Wharf and strolled around the modern buildings and docks. We were surprised to see people swimming in the docks water.
We caught the DLR train back to hotel. The DLR is a automated driverless light rail system. We arrived safely.
For our last night in London we booked dinner at Darwin Brasserie in the Sky Garden complex. It was walking distance from the hotel. We were lucky enough to get a window table and the views from the 36th floor were spectacular. The food and service was also top class.
ZizziQueens HouseTulip stairsPrime MeridianEast meets WestCanary WharfView from the Darwin Brasserie
Day 6 – Off to Wales
Our last day in London. A quick breakfast at Côte before checking out of the hotel.
We caught an uber to Paddington Station to catch the GWR train to Cardiff.
The train departed 10 minutes late – which wasn’t bad for London trains – and we were soon scooting through the English countryside to Cardiff.
Jane and I are off to the United Kingdom and Ireland for three weeks. The itinerary includes: flying to London with Qatar Airways; 5 days in London; Cardiff for two days; Dublin for two days; self drive around Ireland and Northern Ireland ending in Belfast; Edinburgh; self drive around Scotland for five days; returning back to Edinburgh before heading home.
This trip has special significance, as we’re carrying some of the ashes of my Mother and Father who both passed away in the last twelve months. We are meeting up with my cousins, Keith and Alison in Edinburgh to spread the ashes of my parents and Keith and Alison’s parents on Arthur’s Seat overlooking their homeland city of Edinburgh. I was lucky enough to visit Edinburgh in 2024 with my Dad while he was still able.
We had booked the flights late 2025 to get the best possible deal. After spending days analysing the prices and whether we can use our frequent flier points, we decided to book economy with Qatar Airways, flying via Doha. My dream was to fly business class, but we didn’t have the required points and the prices was outside our budget.
My dad passed away in August 2025, and my mum followed soon after in February this year. It was incredibly hard to watch their decline over the past few years, but they built a good life together and created a loving family. Although we’re not a particularly spiritual family, my sister Ann and I felt it would be meaningful to take some of their ashes back to Scotland, where they both grew up.
As the flight day grew closer I kept an eye on the business class upgrade offer from Qatar. It was still very high one week away from departure. But eventually it did come lower and we snapped up the Perth to London leg. The Edinburgh to Perth leg was still very high, so we left that as economy (for now). So we’re flying to London Business Class – how exciting!
QSuite
The Perth to Doha leg was on a Boeing 777-300ER with QSuite Business Class. This is widely accepted as the best business class in the world.
We arrived and checked in early to take advantage of the lounge. Qatar Airways uses the Air New Zealand lounge at Perth Airport. It’s fairly small and basic, by world standards, but the booze flowed freely and the food was ok.
Air New Zealand lounge. Hurry up with those champagnes Jane!
Priority boarding soon had us settling into our home for the next 11 hours. WOW the seats … or should I say cubicle was spectacular. Where’s my champagne? It came with the level of service we were quickly going to get used to.
CheersGetting comfy
There were no set meal times, the flight attendants took our orders from the menu and will be delivered whenever we wish. I was still full, so I ordered a cheese platter after take off and breakfast before we land in Doha. Boarding at 10.30pm means much of the flight is overnight. The biggest advantage of business class is you get a flat bed in which to sleep. I got my cheese platter along with a classic gin martini. I settled in and watched a movie, Anaconda (the 2026 reboot) starring Jack Black and Paul Rudd. It was ok. After the movie I got changed into my complimentary pyjamas. When I got back to my seat the attendant have converted it into a bed. Nighty night.
Cheeses and a MartiniGoodnight Jane
I had a pretty good sleep. Probably around six hours. with still 2 and half hours to Doha I freshened up and changed back into my clothes. By bed was returned to a seat when I go back. Then breakfast was served.
Doha
We arrived ahead of schedule in Doha and went immediately into the Al Mourjan Business Lounge. Wow the lounge seemed as big as Perth Airport itself. It was 5.30am – too early for the breakfast buffet, although Jane and I just had breakfast on the plane and weren’t really hungry. We found a nice spot to sit. I had a coffee while Jane went for a shower. I had a shower later.
We decided to check out the buffet and had a little bite to sample the food. No bacon – but was expected in a Middle East country. We decided to see if the bar served Bloody Marys – they did indeed – not expected in a Middle East country.
Al-Mourjan LoungeBreakfast Bloody Marys
“Normal” Business Class
The leg from Doha to London was on a Airbus A380. This aircraft wasn’t fitted with QSuite. But the “normal” business class was still spectacular. Where is missed with no QSuite, it made up for with a lounge area. This is a full bar surrounded by seats. After another breakfast (3rd one on the trip) we visited the lounge and had more bloody marys. We also had canapes and I had a couple of drams of The Glenlivet.
Normal Business ClassQatari BreakfastLounge LizardsThe lounge on the A380
We arrived at London Heathrow again ahead of schedule very refreshed (and a little tipsy). Through immigration with no line and delay out to a waiting taxi.
What an experience. There was nothing to fault in the whole journey. Qatar Business Class is truly magnificent.