Flying Jetstar to Queenstown was quick and simple. Coming into Queenstown, we flew straight down Lake Wakatipu affording a stunning view of the town on the right-hand side. Already Queenstown was looking like a postcard. We caught an uber, arriving early to our hotel on Frankton Road, Swiss-belsuites Pounamu. Our room wasn’t ready yet, so the receptionist suggested we stroll into the town centre. Jane was keen for a massage and found a Thai place (Sao Thai Massage) in town, I continued exploring the town centre and foreshore. I stopped at Pedro’s By The Lake for a beer (or two) while waiting for Jane. Jane found me and we stayed there for lunch.
Back at the hotel, we got ready for dinner at the Nest. I had made dinner reservations quite a while ago. The restaurant had commanding views over the lake and township. We were lucky enough to score a window seat (perhaps the Filipino waiters helped us out). The G&Ts, wine and food were top class. Being as south as it is, Queenstown doesn’t get dark until around 9pm (in February), so the colours of the view changed throughout the evening. What a magical start to our South Island leg.
Day 11 was our Milford Sound tour, so we were up and out at 6.30 am to meet the tour bus. There was a little confusion about the meeting place, but we met up eventually without holding up the schedule too much. The tour was a whole day travelling from Queenstown to Milford Sound in the Fiordland National Park, with a cruise up and down the length of the inlet. It also included stops in Te Anau, Eglinton Valley, Mirror Lakes and the Homer Tunnel.
Andy, our driver and tour guide was excellent. He was constantly updating us on the landscape, history and Māori culture, with some quirky stories thrown in. His favourite saying was “not too shabby”. Andy reminded me so much of Rhys Darby’s character Murray from Flight of the Conchords.
When we entered the Fiordland National Park the landscape changed dramatically. Steep mountains, glacial streams and waterfalls were everywhere. It was like driving through a fantasy world. Andy stopped the bus numerous times for photo opportunities.
We reached Milford Sound in around four hours, to a perfect picture postcard day – sunny and with a few fluffy clouds. We boarded the boat and cruised up the sound stopping at each waterfall. The captain “stuck the boat’s nose” into the Tasman sea and returned hugging the northern side of the sound. At the Stirling Falls he steered the boat right underneath the falling water. I got a little wet, but it was a great experience. Andy said legend has it that a facial from that water takes 10 years off your looks. Check out the photos and judge for yourself. Milford Sound and the Fiordland National Park are magnificent. Jane and I had to pinch ourselves to realise this was indeed a real place.
We got back to Queenstown around 7 pm and wandered into town for a quick dinner at Madam Woo. The beef rendang and dumplings were nice.
Day 12 was another tour. This time to Mt Cook “Alpine Experience” with a helicopter landing on the Tasman glacier. This is my number one bucket list item – to set foot on a glacier. Again, up at 6.30 am to meet the tour bus. The tour guide and driver was a young Māori guy called Cameron. While he was enthusiastic, he was no Andy. He did his best and seemed knowledgeable about the landscape. The tour group was dominated by Americans and they seemed to talk non-stop and loud. Cameron tolerated them quite well. We sat next to a nice older lady, Bonnie. Originally from Miami, she’s now living in Seoul. She was interesting and not as loud as the other Americans. Jane and I were the only Aussies.
The weather started out bleak and I was worried that visibility would be poor for the high mountains in the Mt Cook National Park. Aoraki (Mt Cook) is the tallest mountain in New Zealand at 3,700 metres. As we entered the National Park the skies cleared, and we got a beautiful view of the mountain itself. Cameron stopped for some nice photo opportunities.
Cameron dropped most of the tour group off at the Hooker Valley Trail. Then he took the remaining four of us to the airport for our flight to the glacier. When we got there the helicopter operator said the weather conditions were not favourable for landing on the glacier today. What a disappointment. They did however offer us a smaller flight onto the mountain with good views of Mt Cook. The other couple didn’t accept the alternative flight and opted for a refund. Jane and I did, however, did the smaller flight (with partial refund).
They loaded us onto the helicopter and to my dismay Jane and I were seated in the middle with no window access. It was challenging to take good photos. We landed on the rocky face and the views were spectacular as promised. We spent eight minutes taking photos and when it was time to come back, the guy sitting next to me offered me his window seat. I graciously accepted and got some great views and photos on the return journey. I feel guilty criticising the Americans earlier. This one was a true gentleman.
Because our flight was cut short, Cameron took us back to the Hooker Valley Trail and Jane and I walked part of it. The weather was quite humid, and we were getting sweaty. Jane decided to remove her tights – I have the surreal photo of Jane getting (semi) naked under the backdrop of Mt Cook. The weather stayed fine for the return four-hour trip back to Queenstown. We stopped at a Salmon farm for a quite bite. The tour was enjoyable despite not being able to land on the glacier. It remains unticked on the bucket list. Something tells me we’ll be back to the south island one day and I’ll get to experience one of the glaciers.
Back at Queenstown we ventured into the town again and had (you guess it) fish and chips at the Pig and Whistle.
Day 13 was our last full day in New Zealand. It’s a day of relaxation and indulgence. First a Onsen hot tub experience, then onto lunch at the Stratofare. Jane was not feeling well and suggested I go ahead without her. I told her to “woman-up” and come with me. “A hot bath will do you good.” She did woman-up and we made our way to the Onsen. It’s a spa retreat up the mountain with beautiful views over the Shotover river. We had booked a “Original Onsen” which included one hour in the private hot tub, a drink and snack. It was a wonderful experience, and it did, in fact, make Jane feel better.
We caught an Uber back into town to catch the Gondola up to the Queenstown Skyline. Again we were lucky with the weather and the cable car ride was smooth with awesome views over the town and lake. We had lunch in the Stratosfare restaurant with the “premium” package. That included a window seat, buffet lunch and a drink. As Jane was still feeling under the weather I had both drinks. Monteith’s Golden Ale and a local Pinot Gris. The lunch had a compressive range of food and everything we sample was fresh and tasty. But the real reason for dining there was the view. Simply stunning. Again, you had to remind yourself this is a real place, not some painted movie backdrop.
With our senses (and stomachs) full we made our way down the slope on the Gondola and caught an Uber back to the hotel (day of indulgence remember). We had an afternoon nap, before walking back into the town for the last look at Queenstown. We took the longer route around the Queenstown Gardens, again marveling at the views. Our last meal was at the Pier, Seafood Chowder and a Steak.
Sadly, today we leave the long white cloud and must return back to reality.
Our Qantas flight leaves Queenstown 1.50 pm and arriving in Perth 7pm after transferring in Melbourne. Sounds simple enough. Not so.
I won’t bore you with the details, but we arrived back at our house 11 pm after: Delayed flight from Queenstown – causing missed connection – transferred to a later flight with no nonfiction – delayed flight from Melbourne. Very disappointing from Qantas.
Anyway, what a fantastic holiday. New Zealand lived up to its reputation and more! Highlights for me were lunch at the Batch Winery, Waiheke Island; Milford Sound and beauty of Queenstown. Nothing beat Hobbiton for Jane.
I think Jane and I will definitely be back one day. There still at lot more to see and do.